Miss Cote -Diavoire who conducts competitive wigs and weaving to promote natural hair and beauty

Long, flowing wigs and intertwining for years dominate the podiums of mass popular ivory beauty competitions.

Contestants in West Africa often spend a huge amount of money on their appearance: from outfits to hairstyles – very little choosing a natural appearance.

For more than six decades, there were only two notable exceptions, the latter was Marlene Kuisi, which in 2022 accepted the title of bone in 2022 -looking shining with its short natural hair, and the crown became the only decoration.

Her victory was not only unusual on the ivory coast, but around the world, where Western beauty standards are often desired for both those who participate in competitions and judges.

Changes are slowly creeping – in December in December Angeliko English -Philapon, from the French Island Caribbean Martin, came with headlines when it was crowned Miss France, mainly from her age – she was 34 years old – and she also put off the Short Hair.

But this year, the organizers of the IVORIAN contest have shaken things from the very beginning.

Wigs, weavers and hair extensions were banned from the previous stages of competitions held in 13 cities across the country (as well as abroad for those in the diaspora).

“We want the candidates to be natural – whether with braids or straightened hair, it must be their own. Beauty must be raw,” said BBC Victor Japaba, president of the Miss Stori coast committee.

A cat -doire is the only African country that is banning a national competition.

Mr. Japaba said that the elephant coast organizers have long tried to promote a more natural appearance – for example, cosmetic surgery is not, but the skin lighting frowns.

“We decided this year to demonstrate the natural beauty of these young women,” he said.

Other changes were also implemented, as a resolution slightly shorter women – at least now 1.67 million (5.4 feet), increasing the age by three years to 28 and – it is important – to reduce the entry fee more than $ 30 (£ 25) to $ 50.

“This change in the criteria is that we watched these young women made a lot of money to participate, and it has become a bit of a budget run.”

When the BBC joined the first preliminary competition in Daloa, the head of the city in the western region of Homes -Sassandra, one contestant was pleased with the new rules – feeling that it gave her a more chance of success because he prefers not to wear wigs.

“I would see other girls with long, artificial hair, and they looked so beautiful,” said the BBC 21-year-old Emmanuel, a real estate agent.

“This rule gives me more proud of a woman – like an African woman.”

This step aimed at celebrating natural African beauty has caused a live discussion across the country where wigs and expansion are popular.

Many women love the creativity that wigs and weavers allow them as a fashionable choice. They also serve as a “protective style”, which means minimizing daily pulling and dragging hair, which can cause breakage.

This was reflected in some contestants in Daloa, who thought that the rule had removed an element of personal expression.

“I am a fan of wigs. I love wigs,” said the contestant and the Minek’s makeup artist. A 24-year-old girl reported the BBC that she was initially shocked by No-Wig, without correction.

“I didn’t expect this rule! But now I like my hair and it’s okay.”

The new rule made the competitors think more about beauty concepts – and changed some opinions, such as Laetitia Mouroufie.

“Last year I had extensions because I thought it was beauty,” said a 25-year-old BBC student.

“This year I feel more confident to be myself.”

If competition affects relations outside the world of the pageant, it can have huge economic consequences.

Wigs from human hair that can last for years, if you care properly, can vary in a cost of $ 200 to $ 4,000, and synthetic cost from $ 10 to $ 300.

Hair Hair Cat -Dihugora costs more than $ 300, and wigs and weavers that make up a significant share of this market.

“This rule is not good for us,” said the BBC 30-year-old Ange Sea hairdresser.

“Many women love wigs. This will hurt our business and we earn more money by working with wigs and weaving.”

In her salon, the glue will be used to carefully attach the wigs so that they look more natural, and women will spend hours with weaving shoulders and extensions.

It shows how deeply anchored wig culture in West Africa, despite the natural movement of the hair that has been gaining momentum among black women around the world over the last decade.

Natural hair products have become much more affordable, and natural hair exposure multiply in social media around the world with tips on how to manage and the style of natural hair that can be laborious.

Previously, it is considered unprofessional to wear hair naturally, and it would be extremely seeing black women’s television stars on the screen or chapters in the meetings with natural hair.

According to Florence Edwig Nang, a specialist in hair and scalp in the head of the Ivarian city of Abidjan, this is often still happening on the ivory coast.

“Turn on the TV (here) and you will see almost every journalist who wears a wig,” the BBC trichologist said.

“These beauty enhancements are fashionable, but they can also cause problems – for example, alopecia or scalp,” she warned.

With the previous rounds, the arguments about whether the competitions should set beauty rules, or women need to solve such things for themselves, continue.

The result may be that the ivory coast has more acceptance of both, allowing women to switch styles – between natural hair, wigs and weaving.

Mr. Japaba said the feedback he received over the new rules was “extraordinary” and clearly showed what was affected.

“Everyone congratulates us. Everyone, even from the border. I get e -emails and WhatsApp messages from everywhere, congratulating us for the desire to return to our roots.”

He said there was no decision on whether the ban on the wig will apply up to 15 contestants who reach the Coast Miss Soce Coast 2025 finals.

This extravaganza will take place at the Objjan Hotel in late June and will be broadcast on national television.

“If this works, we will continue and continue this initiative in the coming years,” Mr. Japaba said.

For Dorori Kare, who went to the said Miss Haut Sassand, her crown is even more important: “Victory with natural hair shows the true beauty of African women.”

The lady said she said that she was going with something more valuable – confidence in himself: “I did not win, but I feel proud. This is me.”

Additional Nicolas Negoce BBC and Noel Ebrin Bru in Abidjan.